Spitalfields Market Portraits

These are the venerable antiques traders of Spitalfields – my friends and collegues – in the finest market I have ever had the pleasure to trade in. There is something about Spitalfields market that warms the soul and it took many months to realise what is was. It’s the traders – with their endless amour of good banter and east end charm.

In April 2011, with the help of the gentle author and Nido – I put on an exhibition of fifty of these photographs showcasing the traders and their importance in one of London’s oldest markets. It was great success and an excuse for me to throw a little party for the traders and their families.

This is still an ongoing series – keep a look for updates here and on Spitalfields Life. The wonderful stories that accompanies each photograph has been graciously provided by the gentlest of authors.

 

Sonoe Sugawara

This is the gracious Sonoe Sugawara, proudly holding an exquisite nineteenth century girl’s silk undergarment. Sonoe originally sold vintage English clothes from a stall in a Tokyo department store and now sells kimonos in London too, moving back and forth two or three times a year with a full suitcase in both directions. “My boyfriend’s great-grandparents were dealers before the war, collecting nineteenth and early twentieth century kimonos,” revealed Sonoe with a significant nod, accounting for the origins of her ravishingly beautiful stock of fine antique kimonos.

Paul the Urban Shepherd

This is Paul the Urban Shepherd. “I work with serious clothing but make it fun. My stock is countrywear, not made in the city but worn in the city,” said Paul, introducing the trend for men’s clothing from the provinces, appropriated by fashionable gallants here in London and worn with an urban attitude. Fondly drawing my attention to the quality on display, “It’s very well made – designed to last a lifetime – and, if it doesn’t fit exactly, it can easily be tailored to the new owner.” he explained. A style ambassador, Paul intuitively understands the necessary balance of levity and sobriety in menswear.

Jennie Sedwell, Heather Sedwell and Lesley Willis

This is Jennie Sedwell, Heather Sedwell and Lesley Willis – not all sisters as you might assume, but in fact two generations who work happily together selling vintage textiles, clothing and haberdashery. Lesley has done it as a hobby for twenty-five years, while her daughter Jennie joined ten years ago and then Heather completed the trio on leaving school. “It was ridiculous!” exclaimed Lesley, “We used to have twelve stalls and a van with a mirror for a changing room. We didn’t even have time to sit down, whereas now unfortunately…”, in appealingly overemphatic protest, whilst presiding over one of the busiest stalls in the market.

Sarah Ovans

This is the stylish Sarah Ovans – just arrived from West London – an exteacher now turned dealer in antique glass. “I am trying it out to see what happens” she declared recklessly, twirling her twisted glass walking stick, liberated from the schoolroom by this new adventure that began with a stall at a charity fair in Kensington. Dressed for the part in an alice band and floral gown adorned with blue cabbage roses, “It’s a tonic meeting all these different people!” she admitted to me in a hushed whisper of excitement, as her eyes roved around the bohemian East End crowd in Spitalfields.

Mr Singh

This is the distinguished Mr Singh, expertly modelling a dress sword which belonged to the Lieutenant General to the Tower of London between 1880-90, a very fine example, that was once presented to Lord Chelmsford. “I must differentiate myself from the general public and I do it by an emphasis on quality,” explained Mr Singh modestly and, casting my eyes upon his impressive selection of antique silver cutlery, I found no reason to disagree. If you see Mr Singh, impeccably dressed English gentleman, and dealer in militaria and classy bric-a-brac, either here in Spitalfields or at St James, Piccadilly, be sure to pay your respects and wish him “Good day.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

John Ovans and Morgan Allen-Oliver

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This Sarah Ovans’ son John Ovans, who with knitwear designer Morgan Allen-Oliver also deals in glass. “Sarah’s house is like a showroom with all this glass everywhere, priced for sale,” revealed Morgan with a coy grin. “Her taste is sophisticated and grown up, whereas our stall is like a sweetshop!” he added, exchanging a knowing smile with John as they happily gestured in unison at their multi-coloured glittering display. Like mother, like son and boyfriend.

Matthew Mcfarlane

This is Matthew Mcfarlane, a free-thinking one man band who enjoys the community here as much as the selling. “I can leave my stall unattended and no one will touch it,” he vouched confidently. Matthew modestly contends his stall offers him a day off from his work as a set builder and designer of shop windows, but I could see he possesses a good eye – and the rescued chairs he has reinvented testify to a cunning ingenious sensibility. “There is something hauntingly beautiful about dishevelled furniture, left to waste, yet with so much more to give.” he added, revealing his true soulful self.

Jessica Hazel and Markus Maverick

This is Jessica Hazel & Markus Maverick, who have been dealing in vintage clothes for over a year but have chosen to branch out into antiques now. “I’m not interested in modern things,” announced Jessica, who developed her passion for dressing up in old clothes as a child in her grandmother’s attic. With their playful outfits, Jessica & Markus are superlative ambassadors for their business – and Markus, famous for rocking his swanky Victorian dandy look, admitted that he recently got talent-spotted in Brick Lane to play Jack the Ripper on the History Channel.

Ian Jeffries and Wayne Shires

This is Ian Jeffries and Wayne Shires, who describe themselves as a couple of Spitalfields virgins, enjoying their first day on the market. Two old friends, both shopaholics, now downsizing and decluttering, Ian & Wayne were positively bristling with excitement. “We’re just here to see what the ride is like today,” quipped Ian, an interior designer with a saucy grin and suave attitude. Already they had sold a lot to the other dealers, “I think they smelled fresh meat!” declared Wayne, a former club promoter and DJ, rubbing his hands in gleeful anticipation.

Lily Beth Wood

This is Lily Beth Wood, daughter of Stuart, which makes her a third generation market trader at least. Lily was enjoying helping out her dad on his stall, while on half term holiday from St Peter’s School, down in Wapping where she lives. “I collect small things when the tide goes out,” said Lily, proudly outlining her mudlarking activities on the banks of the Thames, and revealing an inherited curiosity about things from the past. “Sometimes I find old ship’s nails, bones, oyster shells, bullets, book hinges and once I found a clay pipe in three pieces.” she told me.

Richard Rags and Cosmo Wise

This is Richard Rags and his appealingly voluble son Cosmo Wise, both dressed head to toe in the clothing that is their passion. They cherish the extravagantly worn-out old togs your grandparents discarded, full of vibrant character and handmade details no modern garment can ever match. Cosmo really knows how to wear it and is now copying his most treasured finds in old fabric, sold under his own label “De Rien.” “We are drowning in clothes, clothes dripping from the ceiling, even beds made of clothes.” he revealed with barely concealed delight, divulging the singular living conditions at their clothing warehouse in Hackney Wick.

Rishi Shah and Thomas La Roche

This is Rishi Shah from Bethnal Green & Thomas LaRoche from Paris, two pale young gentlemen pedalling charnel house chic. “We came together because we both collect taxidermy and we realised there is a shortage.” explained Thomas, casting an affectionate eye over his depleted collection of animal parts, bones and religious artefacts.“We sell jars with foetal pigs, chicken embryos, octopus and rats in formaldehyde, all of which have died of natural causes,” revealed Rishi, tenderly displaying a sinister white rodent in a bottle for me to admire.

Sue Stokes and Leo Kurunis

This happy couple comprises Sue Stokes & Leo Kurunis, loving mother and son. Sue lives in Bath and is an antique dealer while Leo lives in Hackney and is in a band. “Leo doesn’t come home very often,” confided Sue, who got up at three thirty in the morning to drive down to London with her stock of French antiques. It was Sue’s first week in Spitalfields, but she planned to be there every Thursday in future, taking the opportunity to stay over at Leo’s place in Hackney each week and see more of her son – that is, if he is not out gigging with Lord Auch.

Jimmie Fish

This is Jimmie Fish of Fish Island Antiques in Hackney. An ex-cocktail waiter on cruise ships who once served Rod Stewart, in an impressive reinvention, Jimmie now deals in industrial and workshop items, like desks, lockers, lamps and trunks. A proud Cumbrian from Carlisle with dark ginger hair and keen grey eyes, full of humour and bristling with positive energy – thriving in his new profession – Jimmie declared, “You get on better, if you’ve got a bit of character and personality about you. It’s good fun, every day’s different and you are your own boss!” Plain words that, in Jimmy’s mouth, became a declaration of independence.